This is also not surprising because apple trees pepper the countryside in this region.

While in Oviedo, stop into any number of local eateries for a hunk of roasted chicken, fresh bread and an airborne stream of sidra, which is poured from great heights into tall thin glasses and drunk slowly on the spot (faster on hot days).

The sawdust on the floor is for, well, use your imagination. The Sidra is like a cider, only better, and more Spanish.

See the three small Asturian-Visigoth churches and Old Oveido, around the medieval town walls. Santa Maria del Naranco is in an astonishing setting on a forested bulkhead of land 45 minutes from town.

Take a bus. Open porticoes on both ends are especially lovely. Santullano has a secret chamber and San Miguel de Lillo glows from within, the red tiles and gold sandstone having only the heavy memories of time to give them life.

The Museo Aruqueologica behind the Cathedral is fascinating and checkout La Casa Real de Jamon for a restaurant that is a meat-eater's dream.